Street dance culture, with its diverse styles like Breaking, Popping, Locking, Waacking, and Hip-Hop dance, is a powerful expression of creativity, identity, and cultural resistance. Fashion has always played a crucial role in this culture, reflecting broader social movements and the unique identities of the dancers. From the birth of these styles to their modern-day evolution, certain brands have become synonymous with street dance, not just for their comfort but for their cultural significance. Let’s explore the history of fashion in street dance and why brands even like Converse, Adidas, Nike, and Puma, became iconic.

Breaking and Hip-Hop Dance: The Emergence of Adidas and Puma in the Urban Streets

Breaking, often synonymous with Hip-Hop dance, emerged in the 1970s in New York City’s Bronx neighborhood, during the rise of hip-hop culture. For many in these marginalized communities, fashion became a form of self-expression and a way to assert identity and pride. Adidas and Puma quickly became the brands of choice, not only for their style but for what they represented.

Adidas gained iconic status in the breaking scene, thanks in large part to the influence of hip-hop pioneers like Run-D.M.C. Their adoption of Adidas shell-toe sneakers, showcased in their hit song “My Adidas,” turned these shoes into a symbol of defiance and pride. Wearing Adidas was a way to reclaim their image and elevate streetwear to a symbol of cultural pride. The classic three-stripe design and the practicality of Adidas tracksuits and sneakers became a uniform for breakers and hip-hop dancers, symbolizing unity and the rebellious spirit of hip-hop(DanceOdia ,POPSUGAR Australia).

Puma, with its deep roots in social justice, was also embraced by the hip-hop and breaking community. The brand’s association with the Black Power movement, particularly through Tommie Smith and John Carlos’s iconic salute at the 1968 Olympics, made Puma a symbol of resistance and empowerment. Wearing Puma was a way to align with a brand that stood for social justice, while also showcasing a style that was fresh and distinctive(POPSUGAR Australia, SI).

“In 1968, at the Mexico City Olympics, American sprinter Tommie Smith made history with his Silent Gesture. After receiving his gold medal for the 200-meter race, Smith raised a gloved fist in a powerful symbol against racial injustice and discrimination in the United States. Smith’s Silent Gesture remains a symbol of athlete activism and an enduring statement against social inequality.”

— Puma

Converse, particularly the iconic Chuck Taylor All Star sneakers, played a significant role in the hip hop era, becoming a staple in the wardrobes of dancers and fans alike. During the rise of hip hop culture in the 1970s and 1980s, fashion was a key element of self-expression, and Converse quickly became associated with the movement due to its accessibility, versatility, and cultural symbolism. Converse sneakers, originally designed as basketball shoes, found new life on the streets as hip hop culture began to flourish. Converse Chuck Taylors became a cultural phenomenon in California, largely influenced by the rise of LA gang culture. As gang culture gained prominence in Los Angeles and Gangsta rap began to dominate mainstream music and furthermore dance, Chucks quickly became associated with this subculture. This connection had a ripple effect on the broader music scene, embedding the shoes into hip hop fashion.

Cultural Symbolism:

Major West Coast hip hop artists, particularly those from N.W.A., helped solidify the Chuck Taylors' place in the culture. As N.W.A. emerged as the leading face of Los Angeles rap, their fashion choices, including Chucks, became iconic. Members like Eazy-E, who had ties to the skateboarding community—a group already embracing Chucks—further popularized the sneaker. This crossover between skate culture and gangsta rap led to a widespread adoption of Chucks in both communities, making them a symbol of West Coast hip hop. The Chuck Taylor All Star became particularly popular due to its minimalist design, which allowed dancers to move freely while also making a statement. The shoe’s association with counterculture and rebellious youth made it a natural fit for the burgeoning hip hop scene, where expressing individuality and challenging the status quo were central themes (Red Bull).

Easy E with Skateboarding community in Venice Beach, CA

Popping and Locking: The Funk Era and Suit Connection

Popping and locking, which emerged in the late 1960s and early 1970s on the West Coast, were deeply influenced by funk music and culture. These dance styles were all about individuality, freedom, and flair, and the fashion choices of poppers and lockers reflected these values. The fashion of popping and locking was also heavily influenced by the disco and funk scenes, with dancers often donning brightly colored, metallic fabrics, flared pants, and wide-brimmed hats.

Lockers and Suits: A Nod to Showmanship

Influence of Soul Train and the Funk Era: Locking, which emerged in the late 1960s and early 1970s, was heavily influenced by the funk music scene and television shows like Soul Train. On these platforms, dancers often wanted to present themselves in a polished, professional manner. Wearing suits, often with wide lapels, bell-bottom pants, and flashy accessories like suspenders and hats, helped them stand out as stylish and sophisticated performers. The suit became a part of their identity, blending the smooth, rhythmic movements of locking with the sharp, well-defined lines of a tailored outfit(Red Bull).
Theatricality and Character: Locking is known for its playful, character-driven style, with exaggerated facial expressions and movements. The suit added to this theatricality, giving the dancer a more refined, almost cartoonish persona. This helped lockers create a distinct visual identity that made their performances memorable and aligned with the entertainment-focused nature of the dance(Red Bull).

The Power of the Gloves

Emphasis on Hand Movements: Locking involves a lot of intricate hand and arm movements, such as wrist rolls, pointing, and the signature "lock" motion. The white gloves helped to accentuate these movements, making them more visible and dramatic, especially in performances. The contrast of the white gloves against darker clothing or skin tones drew the audience's attention to the precise and rhythmic hand gestures that are central to the locking style.
Theatrical and Visual Impact: Locking, like many street dance styles, is as much about performance and showmanship as it is about technique. The gloves added a theatrical element to the dance, enhancing the visual impact of the performance. This was especially important in an era where dancers were often seen on television shows like Soul Train, where visual flair was key to captivating the audience.
Unity and Identity: The gloves also became a part of the collective identity of lockers. They were part of a uniform that symbolized the unity of the dance crew and the distinctiveness of the locking style. Wearing the gloves helped create a cohesive look that set lockers apart from other dancers.

Poppers and Suits: The Robotic and Futuristic Aesthetic

Mechanical and Robotic Imagery: Popping, which involves precise muscle contractions and movements that often mimic robotic actions, was complemented by the clean, structured look of a suit. The sharp lines of a suit enhanced the mechanical, almost inhuman quality of the movements, making the dancer appear more like a well-oiled machine. This robotic aesthetic was a key part of the popping style, and the suit helped to visually reinforce it(Red Bull).
Homage to Jazz and Early 20th-Century Performers: Many poppers were influenced by the styles and fashion of earlier performers, including jazz musicians and dancers from the 1920s and 1930s, who often wore suits. By adopting suits, poppers were paying homage to these earlier artists, blending the sophistication of their attire with the modern, urban energy of street dance. This combination of old-school elegance with cutting-edge dance techniques created a unique, timeless aesthetic(Red Bull).

The Power of Gloves

Poppers, like lockers, also used white gloves as part of their performance attire for similar reasons that enhanced the visual impact of their dance style:

Highlighting Hand Movements: Popping is a dance style that heavily relies on quick, isolated, and rhythmic movements, especially in the hands and arms. White gloves helped to accentuate these movements by making them more visible. The bright white of the gloves created a stark contrast against darker clothing or backgrounds, allowing the audience to clearly see the intricate hand motions that are a key component of popping.
Creating a Robotic Aesthetic: Popping often involves movements that mimic the jerky, mechanical motions of a robot. The use of white gloves contributed to this robotic aesthetic, giving the illusion of mechanical hands. This added to the overall effect of the performance, making the movements appear more precise and machine-like, which is a hallmark of popping.
Visual Rhythm and Syncopation: Poppers use the gloves to create a visual rhythm that syncs with the music. The gloves made it easier for the audience to follow the timing and rhythm of the dancer's movements, enhancing the overall impact of the performance. The popping style's characteristic "hits" or "pops" (sharp contractions of the muscles) were visually amplified by the gloves, making each movement stand out more clearly.
Theatricality and Style: Like in locking, the gloves added an element of showmanship to the performance. They became part of the dancer's style and persona, contributing to the theatricality that is often associated with street dance performances.

Zoot Suits and Their Legacy in Funk Dance

The zoot suit is an iconic fashion statement with deep cultural and historical significance, particularly in the context of African American and Latino communities in the United States. Characterized by its exaggerated, oversized silhouette, the zoot suit typically features a long jacket with broad shoulders, high-waisted trousers that are wide at the knees and taper at the ankles, and often a flamboyant hat to complete the look.

Historical Context

The zoot suit emerged in the late 1930s and gained popularity in the 1940s, particularly among young African American, Mexican American, and Filipino American men in urban areas like Harlem, Los Angeles, and Chicago.

The term "zoot suit" is widely believed to have originated from jive talk and bebop slang, where "zoot" was a playful rhyme with "suit." The style gained broader recognition when prominent jazz musicians like Dizzy Gillespie, Louis Armstrong, and Cab Calloway embraced it.

Wearing a zoot suit was a bold statement of individuality and resistance against mainstream cultural norms. During World War II, fabric rationing laws were in place, and the extravagant use of fabric in zoot suits was seen as unpatriotic by some. This led to tensions and even violent confrontations, most notably the Zoot Suit Riots in Los Angeles in 1943, where zoot suiters were attacked by servicemen and civilians.

Despite this backlash, the zoot suit became a symbol of cultural pride and defiance. It represented a refusal to conform to societal expectations and a celebration of ethnic identity and style. For more history on the Zoot Suit, check out this essay.

Zoot Suits in Funk Dance

Funk dance, emerging in the late 1960s and 1970s, drew heavily on the cultural history and style of previous decades, including the zoot suit. Dancers in styles like locking, which is characterized by exaggerated movements and rhythmic pauses, often adopted the zoot suit for its theatrical flair and historical significance. The suit's bold, oversized look complemented the energetic and expressive nature of funk dance, allowing dancers to make a powerful visual impact.

Wearing a zoot suit in funk dance was also an act of solidarity with the cultural movements of the past. It paid homage to the earlier generations who used fashion as a form of resistance and identity. The zoot suit’s association with defiance against oppression resonated with the ethos of funk, a genre and dance style rooted in the experiences and expressions of marginalized communities.

By incorporating zoot suits into their performances, funk dancers not only made a style statement but also connected their art to a broader historical narrative of resistance, pride, and cultural expression. This fusion of fashion, history, and dance continues to influence the way funk is performed and perceived today.

Funk Dance and Hush Puppies: A Unique Connection

Hush Puppies, known for their comfortable and casual footwear, surprisingly found a place in the world of funk dance during the late 1960s and 1970s. While the brand was initially popular for its suede shoes that epitomized laid-back style, funk dancers embraced Hush Puppies for a few key reasons. Popping Pete in the Electric Boogaloos began to wear these shoes and the rest of the group followed.

Comfort and Functionality

Funk dance, including styles like locking and popping, involves quick, sharp movements and a lot of footwork. Dancers needed shoes that provided comfort and flexibility while still allowing them to slide smoothly across the dance floor. Hush Puppies, with their soft suede material and cushioned soles, offered the perfect balance. The lightweight design of the shoes allowed dancers to move freely and expressively, which was essential for the dynamic and rhythmic nature of funk dance.

Stylish Simplicity

The simple yet stylish design of Hush Puppies also made them a good fit for the funk dance aesthetic. Dancers often paired them with bold, colorful outfits that characterized the era. The neutral tones of Hush Puppies complemented the vibrant clothing without overpowering the overall look. This allowed the focus to remain on the dance and the dancer’s unique style.

Cultural Resonance

Moreover, Hush Puppies became a subtle cultural symbol within the funk dance community. They were accessible and affordable, aligning with the grassroots nature of funk and street dance culture. While not as flashy as some other footwear, Hush Puppies’ understated coolness resonated with the laid-back yet confident vibe that many funk dancers embodied.

In summary, Hush Puppies found their way into funk dance due to their comfort, functional design, and the way they complemented the overall style and spirit of the dance. The shoes became a practical choice that also fit the aesthetic and cultural ethos of the funk dance movement.

Waacking: Glamour with Androgyny

Waacking, which originated in the LGBTQ+ clubs of Los Angeles in the 1970s, was heavily influenced by the glamour of Hollywood and the fluidity of gender expression. Dancers in this scene took inspiration from silver screen stars, incorporating elements of drama, elegance, and androgyny into their fashion choices.

Waacking fashion was all about making a statement—whether through the dramatic use of makeup, the mix of masculine and feminine elements, or the bold, form-fitting clothing that accentuated the dancers’ fluid arm movements. The androgynous looks popularized by Hollywood icons like Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich served as a source of inspiration, allowing Waackers to express their identity and creativity in a way that was both powerful and personal (Red Bull).

Hip-Hop Dance: The Evolution of Streetwear and the Impact of Nike

Hip-hop dance, a broader term that encompasses various street dance styles, has always been closely linked to the evolution of streetwear. As hip-hop culture grew in the 1980s and 1990s, so too did the influence of brands like Nike in the dance community.

Nike, with its innovative designs and focus on athletic performance, quickly became a favorite among hip-hop dancers. The brand’s Air Force 1 sneakers, in particular, became an iconic piece of streetwear, celebrated for their versatility and style. Nike’s ability to blend fashion with functionality made it a natural choice for hip-hop dancers who needed footwear that could withstand the demands of intense choreography while also looking fresh (POPSUGAR Australia).

Modern-Day Street Dance Fashion: A Blend of Heritage and Innovation

Today, the fashion in street dance continues to evolve, with modern dancers paying homage to the original styles while incorporating contemporary trends. Adidas and Nike remain at the forefront, with their retro-inspired designs appealing to dancers who want to honor the pioneers of street dance. These brands have embraced storytelling in fashion, often releasing collections that celebrate the cultural significance of street dance(DanceOdia, Red Bull).

Puma and Champion have also maintained their relevance by tapping into the vintage aesthetic that is so popular in street dance circles. Puma’s retro sneakers and Champion’s classic sweatshirts are not just fashionable—they’re a nod to the history and heritage of the dance forms (POPSUGAR Australia, Red Bull). For dancers today, wearing these brands is a way to connect with the roots of their culture while making a statement about their place in the modern world.

Street dance fashion has always been about more than just clothing—it’s a powerful expression of identity, resistance, and creativity (DanceOdia, POPSUGAR Australia, Red Bull).

The Fabric of Street Dance: Fashion’s Role in Hip Hop and Street Dance Cultures